Author: Victor Ivanov

  • The Advantages of Boxer Engine Design

    The-Advantages-of-Boxer-Engine-Design-SubaruIt is said that “boxer engines” get their name from the way that the pistons move. The pistons move horizontally, in an opposing, side-to-side manner sort of like two boxers punching at each other. Over the years, this unique design has been used from everything from Volkswagons, Porsches to Subarus and BMW motorcycles.  Boxer engines are an elegant engine design and offer natural advantages for automotive design engineers.  Let’s take a closer look at these unique engines.

    Engine balance

    It’s all a matter of physics.  When you get pistons, rods and crankshafts spinning away in an internal combustion engine, you get a lot of vibration.  With standard V-shaped engines, these vibrations can be difficult to remove because there is no natural way to cancel them out.  What design engineers do with V-engines is build opposing “counterbalances” on the crankshaft and other parts. It’s a less than optimum design technique but it does work.

    With boxer-type engines, however, it’s easier.  The opposing pistons balance the internal engine motions out due to the opposing movements of the pistons and crankshaft.  When one piston is heading toward Top Dead Center (TDC), an opposing piston is rushing to the Bottom Dead Center (BDC) of its stroke and the result is that the two forces cancel out each other out and the engine essentially runs vibration free.

    Just for the record, it should be noted that there are other engine designs that naturally cancel out internal vibrations. The straight six, the straight eight, the V12 and the V16 engine types all can be designed for natural counterbalance. None of them, however, lie down flat like a boxer engine does.

    It started long ago

    The commercialization of the boxer design started in 1896 when Karl Benz developed the first internal combustion engine with horizontally opposed pistons. He called it the Kontra engine because the action of the opposing sides of pistons cancelled out engine vibrations. (Kontra in German means “against”). Various cars have used boxer-type engines over the years. Perhaps one of the earliest and most prolific uses was on the VW air cooled flat four, which became the standard engine of the Volkswagen Beetle and remained in production for almost 70 years before being discontinued.  Porsche has long utilized boxer-style engines in their 911 and succeeding model variants.

    Today the largest manufacturer using a boxer engine design is Subaru.  Subaru has been using boxers for over 45 years now and uses them in all their models today.  You could say that the boxer engine is part of the Subaru DNA.

    Ultra-low center of gravity

    A horizontally-designed engine can sit low in the engine bay because it simply isn’t as tall as other upright engines.  This directly contributes to a vehicle’s low center of gravity since the center of gravity on an opposed engine is much lower to the ground compared to an in-line or V design. This allows for far better lateral acceleration when driving. In addition, the benefits to handling are enormous. Better turning/cornering capability, decreased roll, and better grip of the roadway all come natural to the flat engine.

    Engine accident dismount

    In the unfortunate event of a front end collision, a boxer engine can easily be designed to “dive” under the passenger compartment.  Consider how safe that scenario is compared to a bulkier, V-type engine design that cannot be easily designed to dive under a vehicle.  In a bad collision with a large V-6 or V-8, the engine will be pushed into the engine compartment causing considerable injury.

  • Airbags – What You Should Know

    Airbags – Whaat You Should KnowThe concept of the airbag, a soft pillow to land against during a crash, had been around for many years before anyone thought of using them in cars. In fact, the first patent on an inflatable crash-landing device for aircraft was actually filed during World War II.  None were made during the conflict and it wasn’t until the 1980s that the technology migrated into the automotive industry.

    The early automotive airbag designs were impractical and expensive. The main concern for design engineers was the storing and releasing of a compressed gas. Issues were raised such as where to store the container for gas in the car, how to develop a mechanism that allows the gas to expand quickly, and how to make sure that the stored gas would have a shelf life at least equal to that of the car.

    These issues were addressed in the 1970s with the invention of small propellant “inflators,” devices that initiate a chemical reaction that releases hot nitrogen gas into the airbag. This device was a major stepping-stone in the development of airbag technology.

    Technically, the goal of an airbag is simple: slow the passenger’s forward motion in a crash as evenly as possible but do it in a fraction of a second.  The whole process starts with signal from a motion sensor.

    Motion sensors are chip-based accelerometers that continuously measure forces on moving cars. When one of these sensors detects a large, collision-level force, it sends an electrical pulse to the automobile’s airbag inflation system.  Typically this ignites a charge that produces a hot blast of gas which drives the airbag out from its storage site in the car at more than 200mph. The inflated airbag, along with seatbelts, prevents the driver and passengers from being thrown very far forward. The whole inflation process happens in only one-twenty-fifth of a second and serious injury is usually avoided.

    It didn’t take long to learn that the force of an airbag can hurt those who are too close to it, particularly children. Researchers have determined that the risk zone for driver airbags is the first 2 to 3 inches of inflation. So, placing yourself 10 inches from your driver airbag gives you a clear margin of safety. The rules are different for children. An airbag can seriously injure or even kill an unbuckled child who is sitting too close. Experts agree that children 12 and under should ride buckled up in a properly installed, age-appropriate car seat in the rear seat of a car.

    In certain special cases, car owners can request the ability to deactivate their airbags. Generally speaking, you can’t deactivate your airbag without installing a retrofit on-off switch.  And you can’t just have a dealer install one for you. Dealers have to contact the NHTSA and get permission.  Go online and look for the NHTSA brochure, “Airbags and On-Off Switches: Information for an Informed Decision,” and the accompanying form, Request for airbag On-Off Switch.  This information will allow you to decide whether disabling your cars airbag system will make your car safer under the conditions that you typically drive in.

    Source:  Earnhardt Chrysler

  • Choosing Head Units

    Choosing Head UnitsIt’s often called a radio, but a “head unit” is a perhaps a better term for this audio component since it is the brains and command center for a car’s sound system. The head unit is usually located on the dash and allows you to choose things like: what station to listen to, the music volume, what song you wish to hear – along with many other functions. Here’s an in-depth look at the various elements that make up today’s automotive head units.
    The Tuner

    In the early days, the only entertainment option in your car was to tune in a radio signal — hence the name “tuner.”  Today’s, tuners vary from simple to complex and allow you to select AM and FM stations and in some cases, several digital formats. Digital formats are preferred by some because they provide audiophile quality sound that is free from analog noise.

    The first of these digital formats are the satellite-based systems such as Sirius and XM. These are subscription-based services that offer hundreds of channels of programming.  Because the systems are digital, the stations don’t fade the way AM and FM does as you drive away from a transmission area, and the sound is very high quality. Another digital format is HD Radio.  Generally located in metropolitan areas, HD signals are a high-quality digital simulcast of standard analog AM or FM programming. Some stations also broadcast completely separate programming on sub-frequencies that are only available with an HD tuner.

    Disc-Based Music Sources

    Car head units also play recorded material from various sources. Many units still allow one to play CDs and MP3 music files that have been burned onto discs. Some head units also have a built-in hard-disk drive that can store music files transferred from a CD or DVD. Disc-based storage formats are still popular but many users today prefer iPod-type portable sources.

    Portable Music Sources

    Virtually all modern head units today offer some way to integrate portable music players like the iPod into a car’s audio system and control them through the head unit. The most basic connector is the “aux-in jack.” You plug an inexpensive accessory cable into the aux-in jack, which in turn connects to the headphone jack of an iPod or other music player. A better way to connect a portable music player is via a USB port. In most cases, you can operate the device using the head unit’s controls. The battery will also be charged when it’s connected via USB. Most cars with USB ports will play music files directly from a USB thumb-type memory drive as well.

    Bluetooth

    Finally, a technology called Bluetooth audio can wirelessly send music files from a compatible device to the car’s audio system. Bluetooth capability also allows for hands-free phoning and you can hear a caller’s voice over the sound system’s speakers. There’s a caveat with Bluetooth, however: The controls are limited to basic functions such as play/pause and track-skip forward/back, and the head unit usually doesn’t show source-related information such as an artist or song names.

    Controls

    In addition to operating the selected audio source, the head unit can also tailor the sound with bass and treble controls or with a built-in equalizer. Higher-end head units also use sophisticated digital signal processing (DSP) technology to further shape the sound and control the ambient noise that’s common in a car’s interior cabin. Many car audio systems have volume controls on the steering wheel that can change radio stations or music tracks. Some head units have circuitry that allows driver to operate an audio system via voice commands.

    When looking to purchase a head unit for your car’s audio system, Georgiacdj.com suggests that you do your research and make sure you choose a unit that meets all your needs.   The good news is that head units are a very popular product today so the variety is vast and prices are reasonable.

    Article Source: Georgia Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram

  • About Car Audio Amplifiers

    Car Audio AmplifiersIf you are installing a high-end sound system in your car, you are likely considering the purchase of a separate power amplifier.  Factory sound systems do have built-in audio amplifiers but they may not satisfy the needs of enthusiasts with a desire for powerful sound – that’s when separate power amplifiers come into play.

    In this article, we will look over the basic parameters that you should be knowledgeable about when choosing a power amplifier for the ultimate audio sound system in your car.

    It Starts with the Head Unit

    The audio that you play in your car comes from a “head unit”.  Head units are what you see on your dash with a radio tuner, CD player, USB port and other functions integrated.  They are the source of the sounds that you are going to play through your audio system.  Head units are designed to allow you to easily switch sources, change stations and adjust sound bass and treble.

    Then it goes to a Pre-Amp

    After the sound signal is developed in the head unit, it has to be processed by a preamplifier or “preamp.” The preamp stage is also where such tone controls as bass, treble and equalization tailor the audio before it is fed to the power amplifier. Part of the preamp processing involves circuitry known as a crossover. Crossovers electronically divide the full-range audio signal amplifier into separate frequencies for woofers, mid-ranges and tweeters. Think of a crossover as an audio-signal traffic cop, directing specific frequencies so they can be reproduced by specialized speakers. Generally speaking all the pre-amp functions are performed in the head unit.

    Then on to the Power Amplifier

    Following the preamp processing, the sound signals are fed to a power amplifier. The amplifier is the device that creates a high-power electrical current to drive the speakers. Vacuum tubes were once used to amplify electrical signals but today automotive power amplifiers use power transistors.

    During amplification, amplifiers generate heat, so heat management is a major part of an amp’s design. That’s why an important part of an amplifier’s exterior is made up of what is known as a “heat sink.” Similar to a car’s radiator, the heat sink has fins that create surface area to radiate the internal heat generated by the amplifier.  This brings up another point: since these heat sinks release heat, it is best to install them in a well ventilated area.
    Amplifier Power Ratings

    Amplifier power output is measured in watts per channel. A higher wattage rating for an amplifier means more power is available to drive the speakers. The industry standard for amplifier wattage ratings is RMS. This stands for “Root Mean Square” and is a mathematical equation for measuring the magnitude of the output signal. When you are comparing different amplifiers, be sure to compare RMS ratings and not “Peak Power” ratings which are usually much higher. In fact, the Consumer Electronics Association trade group administers a voluntary car audio amplifier power measuring standard called CEA-2006-A. Look for CEA-2006-A wattage ratings on the amplifiers you are considering.

    Do Your Research

    Amplifiers are probably the most misunderstood part of a car audio system. Many simply want “powerful amps”.  As we hope you understand from the article above, don’t just go for the highest power ratings.  Look for CEA-2006-A certification and a high quality brand as well.

    Source: Palmer Dodge

  • Why Does My Car Battery Keep Going Dead?

     Car Battery Change It can be one of the most annoying things to deal with, a car battery that goes dead at random times – you never know when it will leave you stranded. And not only is that annoying, this problem can be difficult to troubleshoot too. The problem is sometimes the root cause is a bad battery, sometimes it’s the alternator, and other times it’s the car’s wiring. Frankly, in most cases you want a professional mechanic to troubleshoot this sort of thing, but here’s a few things that will help you understand the situation.

    First, let’s look at what we are dealing with – It’s just a battery. Just like an AA cell, it has a positive terminal, a negative terminal and electrons flow from one terminal to the other. The primary function of a car battery is to start the engine by powering the starter motor and provide electric power to run the engine. In addition to its primary function, it also provides electric power to the lights, horn, heater, and all the other electronic gadgets in the car.

     Car Battery Sad Looking Technician

    If your battery keeps going dead on you, consider the following:

    Short-Term Driving:  Driving your car on short trips too often can contribute to a battery with a poor charge. This is because the most taxing use of the battery in your vehicle is the initial engine starting phase (10-20 seconds) and when short trips are the norm, you never give it enough time to get fully charged. When in doubt, drive around for 10 mins or more just to keep a good charge in the battery.

    A Faulty Charging System: It’s the responsibility of the alternator in your car to keep the battery charged. If it malfunctions and provides a charge that’s too high or too low, then you can have a problem. Technically a fully charged battery produces 12.6VDC voltage. The service manager at www.sheridanford.com told us that to charge a car battery properly, an alternator must pump out some 13.4V-14.7VDC. If the alternator isn’t working properly (i.e. isn’t putting out 13.4V-14.7VDC) then it may be failing to charge the car battery properly. This can occur due to a loose connection, a bad circuit, or just a faulty alternator. A qualified automotive mechanic can easily check this for you.

    Technician Charging

    Extreme Temperatures: Extreme cold and/or heat can stress the internal chemistry and structure of a car battery and induce premature failure and random dying. In most cases, there isn’t much you can do about temperature extremes but it’s a factor that you should know about. Chemically what goes on is called “sulfation”. It’s a build-up of lead sulfate crystals which can shorten the life of the battery and lengthen the amount of time needed to charge it. If your battery is heavily sulfated and you don’t drive your car a lot, as we discussed before, the battery may never get fully charged.

    Excessive Current Draw: There are devices in your car that will draw a small amount of current to stay on, things like your clock circuit and other items. Normally this sort of thing won’t kill your battery however, if you have an excessive current draw due to a wiring short circuit or some other kind of fault, then your battery may lose its charge before you get a chance to drive your car again. Of course, leaving a light in your car on will do the same thing (as we all know!).

    When in doubt, consult a professional mechanic to find out what the problem is.

    Article Source: Sheridan Ford

  • Driving a Giant Oscar Mayer Weiner

    Oscar Mayer Weinermobile Side ViewThe choice of the style of car or truck you drive is usually quite personal. Some people prefer sporty cars, some need to haul families, some need trucks, and others opt for giant hot dogs. This article concerns the last group.

    Every year between several thousand college graduates apply for positions piloting one of Oscar Mayer’s six Wienermobiles around the country. It’s a really big deal, candidates confess, and not everyone is accepted. The company looks for enthusiastic young college grads who will spend a year on the road as official brand advocates for the Oscar Mayer. It’s the perfect job many insist.

    The Wienermobile was born in 1936, when Carl Mayer approached his uncle Oscar with the idea of constructing a hot dog-like vehicle and driving it around Chicago. Oscar decided this odd idea had merit and decided to try it out. It was a huge hit. Over the years, the Wienermobile has developed from a smallish 13-foot affair (premiercapecod says that Carl Mayer drove the original around with his head poking through a hole in the roof) into an instantly-recognizable, cultural icon.

    Oscar Mayer Original Weinermobile

    The Wienermobiles were parked during the fuel woes of the ’70s. A corporate decision was made to stop the promotional technique and concentrate on more traditional media – like TV and radio. This became the heyday of the jingle-laden commercials featuring Oscar Mayer wieners.

    Then a funny thing happened in the late 80s when the Wienermobiles hit the road again. They had transcended commercial status and had become bonafide cultural icons. Now an entire generation had been raised on Oscar Mayer products and everyone wanted to hear the jingles again and see genuine Weinermobiles. Today, the Weinermobile is probably the most well known vehicle in automotive history.

    So what’s it like to drive a Weinermobile? “Doggers”, as Oscar Mayer executives call them, say that driving a Weinermobile instantly propels them from ordinary person into celebrity. When traveling across the nation, other vehicles beep, honk and wave. When stopped, well, it rapidly becomes a major event. Doggers confess that in order to do the job, one has to really enjoy the extreme attention that occurs. It can be overbearing at times, some drivers admit, but the experience of a lifetime.

    Are you interested in seeing a Weinermobile for yourself, visit the Oscar Mayer website for a schedule of appearances.

    Oscar Mayer Weinermobile Side Picture

    Article Source: Premier Cape Cod

  • The Evolution of Automobile Paint

    Just as the automobile has evolved during its 100 plus year lifetime so have the coatings that protect and beautify them. Not only have the paints evolved from natural products to fullysynthetic ones, the method of applying them has changed from laborious hand brushing to fully automated methods. Thanks to information we gleaned from the www.browningdodge.com website, we can honestly say that the history of automotive coatings is really just as interesting as any other automotive technology. Here’s the quick history for you.

    In the first part of the 20th century, automobiles were painted the same way the horse-drawn carriages were – completely by hand. The paints were natural-based (frequently linseed oil and natural pigments) and the painting process was a lengthy affair. Back then, painting a car required several coats of paint and several days of drying time! Needless to say, this part of the production process was a serious bottleneck in the automotive manufacturing process.

    DuPont developed a greatly improved paint system in the early 1920s with its lacquer paints. These paints were based on nitrocellulose and were applied via spray guns. This speeded up vehicle assembly time a great deal. They weren’t perfect paints, though, multiple coats were still needed and drying had to occur in between coats. Lacquers also have poor resistance to certain petroleum-based solvents. Repeated exposures to gasoline spills, for example, could damage lacquer finishes. This was an obvious problem for vehicles that could get splashed with gasoline when getting filled.

    In the 1930s, another major development in paint technology came with enamel paints. Enamels were sprayed on vehicles and then were baked in ovens. This speeded up the manufacturing process a lot and produced a rock hard finish which was resistant to solvents (such as gasoline). However, enamel paints had a down side. They oxidized in direct sunlight which caused the colors to begin to show fading and/or dulling quickly, sometimes in just a few months. The durability of enamel finishes was improved considerably with the introduction of “acrylic enamels” in the early 60’s. Acrylic enamels offered much improved durability and a wider range of bright, pleasing colors – especially metallics.

    In the late 1970s, a new type of finish, called “basecoat/clearcoat,” was developed. Basically this type of paint consisted of a pigmented enamel basecoat followed by an ultra-hard clear enamel top. It allowed a great deal more flexibility in the composition of the base coat (more colors and metallic) because the top clear coat functioned as a protectant by incorporating UV absorbers. And they were beautiful to look at. Initially, the cost of the basecoat/clearcoat paint system was expensive but refinements in the paint technology helped to reduce costs. By the late 80’s this paint system had become widespread. In fact, only a small percentage of cars manufactured today do not use basecoat/clearcoat paint systems.

    While the basecoat/clearcoat paint system is far superior to conventional one-coat enamel paints in many respects, it has a few disadvantages. The clearcoat has a greater tendency to show marring when rubbed by foreign materials. Finally, excessive polishing a car with clearcoat on it can remove a good part of the finish along with its built-in UV protectants.

  • Why Is My Car Battery Always Dying?

    It can be one of the most annoying things to deal with; a car battery that seems to randomly die. The problem with troubleshooting this sort of thing is that sometimes the problem is the battery, sometimes it’s the alternator, and sometimes the car’s wiring. Even seasoned mechanics can be confused when troubleshooting a randomly dying battery. That being said, if you have a battery that goes kaput on you occasionally, he’s a few things to know.

    First, let’s look at what we are dealing with – It’s just a big battery. It has a positive terminal, a negative terminal and electrons flow through wires from one terminal to the other. Car batteries only have 12 volts so they can’t shock you.

    The primary function of a car battery is to start the engine by powering the starter motor and provide electric power to run the engine. In addition to its primary function, it also provides electric power to the lights, horn, heater, and all the other electronic gadgets in the car.

    The average battery life is in the 3-4 year range and it should start your car consistently. If it doesn’t do that, consider the following:

    A Faulty Charging System: It’s the responsibility of the alternator in your car to keep the battery charged. If it provides a charge that’s too high or too low, then you can have a problem. Technically a fully charged battery produces some 12.6VDC voltage. The service manager at springfieldchryslerdodgejeepram told us that to charge a battery properly, an alternator must pump out 13.4V-14.7VDC. If the alternator isn’t working (i.e. isn’t putting out 13.4V-14.7VDC) then it may be failing to charge the battery properly. This can occur due to a loose connection, a bad circuit, or just a faulty alternator. A qualified automotive mechanic can easily check this for you.

    Short-Term Driving: Driving your car often on short trips can contribute to a battery failing to keep a charge. This is because the most taxing use of the battery in your vehicle is the initial engine starting phase (10-20 seconds) and you never give it enough time to get fully charged. When in doubt, drive around for 10 mins or so just to keep a decent charge.

    Extreme Temperatures: Extreme cold and/or heat can stress the internal chemistry and structure of a car battery and induce premature failure and random dying. In most cases, there isn’t much you can do about temperature extremes but it’s a factor that you should know about. Chemically what goes on is called “sulfation”. It’s a build-up of lead sulfate crystals which can shorten the life of the battery and lengthen the amount of time needed to charge it. If your battery is heavily sulfated and you don’t drive your car a lot, the battery may never get fully charged.

    Excessive Current Draw: There are devices in your car that will draw a small amount of current to stay on, things like your clock circuit and other items. Normally this sort of thing won’t kill your battery however, if you have an excessive current draw due to a short circuit or fault of some sort, then your battery may die before you get a chance to drive your car again. Of course, leaving a light in your car on will do the same thing (as we all know).

    Constantly replacing batteries in your car or having a battery that is randomly dying means something is wrong. When in doubt, consult a professional mechanic to find out what the problem is.

    Article Source: Springfield Chrysler Dodge

  • How the Model T changed America

    The father of the Model T automobile, Henry Ford, was born on July 30, 1863 on his family’s farm in Dearborn, Michigan. Henry grew up naturally curious about the machinery that was used for farming and enjoyed tinkering and fixing it. When he got older, in addition to farming, he worked at a Detroit machine shop and later became a part-time employee for the Westinghouse Engine Company. In his spare time he pursued his ultimate passion and built his first “horseless carriage”. The date was 1896 and other Ford-built carriages soon followed.

    Ford incorporated the Ford Motor Company in 1903, and proclaimed, “I will build a car for the great multitude.” Working feverously for 5 years, Ford completed the design of his Model T automobile and built a factory to make them. The first Model T’s became available for sale in 1908 and were offered for $950. (Within 10 years, a Model T could be purchased for just $280.)

    It wasn’t long before demand outstripped supply and Ford’s solution to this problem was revolutionary. He developed advanced “assembly line” techniques in 1914 and his Highland Park plant could turn out a complete chassis every 93 minutes. This was a stunning improvement over the earlier production time of 728 minutes. Ford’s mass-production techniques would eventually allow for the manufacture of a Model T every 24 seconds. His innovations made him an international celebrity.

    In 1914, Ford began paying his employees five dollars a day, nearly doubling the wages offered by other manufacturers. This “Five Dollar Day” assured that he could obtain the best employees on the job market. Later he cut the workday from nine to eight hours in order to convert the factory to a three-shift workday. Business was booming and Henry felt the employees that contributed to his success should have better lives as a result.

    By 1927, nearly 15,500,000 Model T’s were sold in the United States alone and the vehicle irrevocably altered American society. As more Americans owned cars, urbanization patterns soon changed. No longer was it necessary to live nearby where one worked and lived. The United States saw the growth of suburbia and a population entranced with the possibility of going anywhere, anytime.

    It is quite a realization that Ford witnessed these changes during his lifetime. Interestingly, he personally longed for the agrarian lifestyle of his youth. In the years prior to his death on April 7, 1947, Ford sponsored the restoration of an idyllic rural town called Greenfield Village. Today Greenfield Village is a very popular tourist attraction that provides insight into the life of the man who changed America – Mr. Henry Ford.

  • Comparing the very best family touring and estate cars

    Growing families that need a little more room than a standard hatchback or saloon will usually turn their attention to estate and touring cars. Along with a bigger boot, estate and touring car owners still benefit from impressive styling, great refinement and plenty of equipment.

    In addition, running costs are much cheaper than bigger MPVs and crossovers. Simply by adding some roof bars on top, from Tesco or other retailers, the same functionality can be enjoyed.

    But what are the very best family touring and estate cars currently available? Here’s a quick comparison.

    BMW 5 Series Touring

    Possibly the best estate car around, the BMW 5 Series Touring ticks all the right boxes. The build quality is second to none, so you won’t have to deal with many surprise breakdowns. At the same time, owners are treated to a powerful yet controlled drive behind the wheel.

    Self-levelling rear suspension allows you to transport heavy loads with the greatest of ease, while the ample safety and security kit means passengers will always stay free from harm.

    Ford Focus Estate

    If the 5 Series Touring is too expensive, consider the Ford Focus Estate instead. Not only does this option handle just as well as the BMW, it also boasts a number of powerful yet economical engines.

    Space and practicality are also best in class, while all versions come with air conditioning, a digital radio, and Bluetooth.

    Audi A6 Avant

    Going back to the executive market, the Audi A6 Avant provides stiff competition for the BMW 5 Series. Handling isn’t quite as sharp but the beautiful cabin is a thoroughly pleasant place to be.

    You won’t need to spend much on additional extras either, as nearly every piece of equipment you could want is included as standard. Competitive running costs and strong engine performance only add to the Audi A6 Avant’s strong points.

    Kia Cee’d Sportswagon

    Budget-conscious buyers that don’t want to break the bank with a purchase should look no further than the Kia Cee’d Sportswagon. With lots of space, a high quality cabin, and an abundance of equipment, you can’t go far wrong.

    It is probably a bit noisier than the Ford Focus Estate and won’t deliver an equally impressive drive, but if value for money is your key concern, pick the Kia Cee’d Sportswagon.

    Verdict

    Personal preference in terms of handling and equipment is the only way to separate top of the range estate cars like the BMW 5 Series Touring and Audi A6 Avant. However, if your budget doesn’t stretch to these options, there are some commendable alternatives available.

    The Ford Focus might not be as refined, but it can’t be beaten when it comes to space and practicality. And for the ultimate in cost-effective motoring, try the Kia Cee’d Sportswagon for size.

  • Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz and Their Attractive Sub-brands

    It has become common place over the decades for manufacturers to entertain a certain sector of the market with high performance versions of their most popular models – or even one-off specials – and while most are well received, some marques stand out among the rest.

    The big three German manufacturers of Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz all arguably have the most attractive sub-brands – RS, M and AMG – appeasing those with a need for speed, great handling and a far more visceral experience from that of their standard models. Examples from the RS, M and AMG departments bring immediate appeal, thanks to their enhanced appearances, exciting aural offerings and their ability to reach the horizon in mere seconds.

    A massive advantage for the trio’s more sporting models is the fact that their donor cars were never sluggish or of low quality to start with and on their own offer premium finishes and an overall sorted package, a combination that is even still evident in the second-hand market today.

    To celebrate these manufacturers’ ability to bring such majestic and exhilarating models to the fore, here’s a run down of possibly the best examples from each sub brand. Don’t agree with the choices? Let us know your favourite RS, M and AMG models in the comments below.

    Audi RS2

    Audi RS2

    For Audi, the RS2 was genesis for the RS program and a project that was to become one of its most iconic cars in the line-up. The RS2 was a joint venture between Audi and compatriots Porsche, resulting in one of the most technologically advanced cars built with an Audi badge on the front at that time.

    The compact estate car was built on Audi’s 80 Avant structure, but saw many additions and new parts to make it a superbly fast car; even by today’s numbers, the RS2 could give a Porsche Cayman a run for its money. Under the bonnet was a much modified version of Audi’s 2.2-litre inline five-cylinder turbocharged powertrain, serving up 311bhp; good enough for a 0-62mph sprint of just 4.8sec. One of the most famous stats for the RS2 was that its 0-30mph sprint time (1.5sec) was faster than that of a McLaren F1, as found out by Autocar.

    This power was put through a highly effective Quattro four-wheel-drive system that led that way for future RS models, especially its successor the RS4. Admittedly, the RS2 wasn’t the best handling car in the world, thanks to the occasionally violent turbo and fairly steep understeer. However, it had a bucket load of character and to this day is an incredibly difficult car to get hold of, with the odd example with over 100,000 miles on the clock selling for around the £20,000 mark.

    BMW M3 CSL

    Black BMW M3 CSL E46

    Now to BMW’s Motorsport division and a car that many revere as one of the all-time best M3 variants, the CSL. Standing for Coupe Sport Lightweight, the CSL was a raw and highly focused version of the E46 M3 and since its short production time in 2004 has become a modern classic.

    An element that ensured the CSL would differ from the ‘standard’ M3 was its loss of 110kg, with many weight-saving applications helping to accomplish this diet, some of which coming straight from its then Formula 1 team. Firstly, a large proportion of the car’s sound deadening was removed, before its electrical architecture was stripped, meaning creature comforts such as electric seats and satellite navigation were taken out, while air con was not standard but could be fitted at no extra cost.

    Add to this a carbon roof to bring down the centre of gravity, an extra 17bhp in that straight-six engine and a viciously fast semi-auto SMG gearbox, you’ve got yourself a fairly aggressive package; even more so when you press that all-important ‘M’ button on the steering wheel. A 50:50 weight distribution and this loss of weight also resulted in incredibly accurate handling dynamics, while a tighter steering ratio also did its part to increase the car’s responsive attitude.

    Mercedes-Benz CLK DTM AMG

    Mercedes-Benz CLK DTM Cabriolet

    When manufacturers create road-going versions of their race cars, you know you’re likely to be in for a treat, and with Mercedes CLK DTM AMG it was no different. Here was a fettled version of the CLK55 AMG coupled with inspiration from the German Touring Car championship, with just 100 coupes and 80 cabriolet versions released.

    Mercedes used its supercharged 5.4-litre naturally-aspirated V8 for the CLK DTM AMG and upped the power to a massive 582bhp, good for a 0-62mph run of a mere 3.8sec. To give it a more aggressive stance, the track was widened at both the front and rear, while special tyres and suspension modifications were required to keep the car from destroying itself and allow it to take it to a 200mph top speed.

    The CLK DTM AMG has since become a bit of a ‘Unicorn’ car and a great investment, with prices commanding various premiums for low mileage examples over the original £180,000 asking price. It was even a car that got many racing drivers’ attention; the likes of Jenson Button, Kimi Raikkonen and Mikka Hakkinen all at some point owned examples of the car, including the cabriolet.

    Image Source: Wikipedia

  • 3 top ways to pimp your motor

    You old motor is about as efficient as a soapbox car. Rust flakes off it like your 80-year-old nan’s dry skin, and it phut-phuts black smoke from its exhaust pipe like a Dickensian chimneystack. Whether it’s a boxy old Vauxhall Nova or a previously sleek Nexus, this four-wheeled wonder has become an unsalvageable blunder.

    But maybe not. That downtrodden car hasn’t had its day just yet – at least in aesthetic terms.

    No one would claim that pimping your ride was easy, but a few of these tips could turn your attempts from Wacky Races to Top Gear.

    Know your basics

    Have you ever watched a have-a-go handyperson try to fix a car? Their lack of knowledge will leave them sweating gasoline and falling into floods of tears when their engine explodes. When you don’t have a solid foundation of knowledge, heading under the bonnet is ill-advised.

    More than this, a poor craftsperson always buys the worst tools. Make sure you ain’t one of them.

    Invest in a car trim adhesive that won’t damage your vehicle, a toolbox replete with every nut and bolt necessary and consult a professional mechanic whenever you hit a dead end. After all, it’s always better to relinquish some of your DIY knowhow when you’re truly stuck.

    Keep more eyes on the road

    Some drivers want no-holds-barred speed. Some want a comfortable ride. And some just want to know that they won’t hurt anyone on their travels.

    For those longing to feel safe and secure, cameras are here to save the day. A parallel parking camera, available from various suppliers will help you reverse with ease – and can be fitted to almost any car.

    Even the oldest banger can be modified with all the latest security features, and cameras are only the tip of the iceberg.

    Upgrade your locking systems, airbags and bumpers to help you feel a little more secure. Short of a roll-cage, you couldn’t be safer.

    Food for motors

    Everybody loves to chow down while they drive, or allow passengers to engorge themselves. Well, your pals will be queuing up round the block for a ride when you purchase a fridge for their foods.

    In-car fridges are a cheap and fun way to modify your car. A sizeable fridge can cost under £100. You’ll be able to stock it full of nutritious goodies for a picnic or simply some snacks for the road.

    Not every car modification is an overly expensive mass of add-ons and complex mechanics. When your rusty motor is losing its sheen, just fork out a few quid and you could give it an extra lease of life.